As Edward Abbey had it, in a mood of gleeful disparagement: "A good writer must have more than vin rose in his veins, use more than Chablis for ink." But what could be more penetrating, complex, or grave than a great Chablis? Most writers would be lucky to have that in their pens. Yet a mauvaise reputation is not the first problem the august appellation has had to face. Devastated during World War II, the land devoted to vineyards in Chablis eventually dropped to a tiny 1,235 acres. The region had to be entirely rebuilt
